Indoor plants Beaucarnea

Description

Special Features of Beaucarnea (Nolina)

Beaucarnea is a genus of perennial evergreen trees and shrubs in the subfamily Nolinoideae. Formerly, it was considered an independent family Ruscaceae, and now according to APG III system (2009) it is placed in the asparagus family Asparagaceae. Previously, the genus belonged to the agave family Agavaceae. It has now also become a subfamily of the family Asparagus. The confusion is aggravated by the fact that some taxonomists believe that the genus Beaucarnea is a part of the genus Nolina belonging to the subfamily Nolinoideae. In practice, Beaucarnea is often treated as a synonym of Nolina.

Beaucarnea recurvata and Nolina recurvata that are more commonly available are also referred to as:

- Bottle Palm. The name refers to the stem (trunk) that slowly grows up to 2 meters (or 3 meters) tall, with the lower part bluish green and expanded. To describe it, the term "caudex" is often used. In botany, the caudex is an underground modified stem structure that is typically non-photosynthetic and has a few important functions. One of them is keeping moisture and nutrients for the plant to survive through adverse periods. Another is vegetative propagation and reproduction.

- Ponytail (or Horsetail) Palm due to the fact that the light green foliage is made up of thin narrow (1-2 centimeters wide) long (100-180 centimeters long) leaves with pointed tips, freely hanging down. In intense heat conditions, these "ribbons" collect themselves in dense bundles, thus significantly reducing the evaporation area.

- Elephant Tree (or Elephant Foot) because of the greyish brown bark covering the trunk. It looks like a wrinkled but still beautiful skin of an old elephant and helps to keep moisture inside.

All of the above tricks to conserve water work well in the arid climate in the native tropical areas of Beaucarnea (Guatemala, Honduras, Mexico, Texas and other southern US states). First plants in the genus were described in 1803, but until now there is no commonly agreed opinion on the number of species in the genus: 20? Or 24? Or about 30?

Each of the species is unique. You can admire them in greenhouses:

- Beaucarnea guatemalensis, or Nolina guatemalensis, grows very slowly in culture; however, over the years it grows up to 4.5-8 meters tall. The trunk resembles a huge bulb 3.5 meters in girth and is topped with strap-like leaves 60-200 centimeters long. Young leaves are reddish and gradually turn green. Want to enjoy the blooms? You should be, first, a long-liver, and second, a lucky person because blooming occurs very rarely.

- Beaucarnea longifolia, or Nolina longifolia, is a sturdy plant reaching several meters in height. The thick cork is covered with cracks that deepen with time. To see the cracks, you will need to push aside a thick "skirt" of old leaves covering the trunk.

- Beaucarnea lindheimeriana, or Nolina lindheimeriana, is one of the lowest-growing species. The trunk is barely visible; durable hard leaves trail over the ground and interfere with walking, for which the plant was nicknamed Devil's Shoestrings.

- Beaucarnea matapensis, or Nolina matapensis (Tree Beargrass), is low-growing. In the wild, you will infrequently come across specimen reaching more than 180 centimeters. They also tend to have "skirts" of old dried leaves.

Beaucarnea recurvata (Nolina recurvata), in addition to what has been said about it, is notable for its large loose panicles made up by dozens of small creamy white flowers with yellow, purple, or pink tinge. The flowers appear in the summer in mature specimens. In indoor cultivation, however, the plant does not bloom. Why? Nobody can explain. Fancy trying to make your Beaucarnea bloom?

The Secrets to Successfully Growing Beaucarnea (Nolina)

Beaucarnea needs bright light (2600-3000 lux). It will thrive in the south- or southwest-facing window - preferably for the rest of its lifetime, say those who think that Beaucarnea does not like being relocated. However, in the summer you may and you should take it under the direct sunlight on the balcony or in the garden (Remember to protect it from the rain!). From October to February, arrange a resting period with supplementary lighting with household fluorescent or special phytolamps

In their natural habitat, the summer temperature in the shade does not drop below 30 ° C; in the sun, the temperature of 50 ° C is not uncommon. For indoor cultivation, the best temperatures are 18-25 ° C (no drafts, please!). In the winter, try to keep the plant cool (about + 10 ° C but not less) and cease watering. If you can not provide this temperature and keep the plant at the temperature of above 15 ° C, water sparingly.

In the summer, water plentifully and regularly as soon as the soil dries up. Keep the soil moist but not soggy. Thanks to the caudex, underwatering in any season is safer than overwatering.

In the summer, the plant will benefit from frequent (at least weekly) misting to increase air humidity. You may also clean the dust off the leaves with a sponge or damp cloth. Avoid water getting on the trunk during misting or cleaning.

You should know that the physical conditions determine the plant's stem length and thickness. In low light and excessive watering, the trunk gets thinner. If you want to get a good thick "elephant's feet", make sure your plant is exposed to direct sunlight and keep it on the dry side.

From spring to autumn (i.e. from April to August) feed your plant every 2 weeks with liquid houseplant fertilizer. You can use:

A) Cacti fertilizer

B) Every 3 weeks alternate mineral and organic fertilizers and apply them at half-strength.

The modest growth rate could theoretically eliminate the need for frequent repotting. In reality, ANNUAL spring repotting of young specimens into larger pots accelerates growth and help to transform the stem from a short spherical bulb to an elongated "bottle". Repotting should be done with caution because the roots are very fragile and superfluous. Do not try to deepen the thickened part of the stem into the soil. Repot in the dry soil and avoid watering for two days.

The soil must be loose. You might want to experiment with the following compositions:

- Equal-parts clay soil, leaf mold, and sand (1:1:1)
- Loam (or compost), humus, and sand (1:1:1)
- Loam, leaf mold, humus, peat, and sand (1:1:1:1:1)
- Loam, leaf mold, peat, and sand (2:1:1:1)
- Leaf mold, leaf mold, and sand (2:1:1)
- Leaf mold, peat, and sand (1:1:2)
- Leaf mold, peat, humus, and sand (1:1:1:2).

Remember to check acidity. The best pH is 5.0-7.0.

Repot a mature tree at least once every 2 or 3 years when you notice that the plant slows down growth and / or the roots appear from the bottom drainage hole. Alternatively, if the pot is wide enough, you can topdress 3-5 cenimeters of soil. It should be done every spring.

If case of root rot, repot Nolina immediately. Do not water the plant for 10 days, otherwise rot may continue after repotting. Rot is usually caused by waterlogged soil in the pot. Therefore, make sure to provide good drainage by using expanded clay, brick chips and / or small pebbles.

You can also use hydroponics, and Beaucarnea will thrive. Remember, however, that the hydroponic method also has its disadvantages.

Nolina can be propagated in two ways:

- From seed (if you have been lucky enough to buy them). The requirements include sorting, soil humidity control, stable temperatures of 20-25 ° C, regular airing, and artificial lighting to extend daylight to 12-14 hours ... The seeds will germinate 2-3 weeks later. You will have to wait 10 years more until the seedling becomes an attractive plant. 

- By lateral shoots, sometimes developing from the buds on the caudex. Carefully cut off the shoot with a few apical leaves close to the soil, dry for 5-6 hours, and powder the cuts with activated carbon. Then dip the end in the root stimulant and plant in a separate pot, slightly inclining from the vertical. Put on a transparent cap and place in a warm place. The soil temperature should be close to 25 ° C. If you are lucky, you will see new leaves. Expectations do not always come true because the cuttings root very slowly.

When you see that the cutting has taken root, remove the cap.

After studying these two methods, it would be good to find a third option, less expensive and more reliable, wouldn't it? This third option really exists. You can buy a young plant from a reputable seller!

Potential Problems

Perhaps, there is no other tropical foliage houseplant equal to Beaucarnea in hardiness. However,

- If Beaucarnea slows down growth, with few very small new leaves, or ceases to grow, there is not enough light and feeding.

- If the leaves become limp and dark, increase the light.

- If the leaves turn pale, get smaller, and lose their elasticity, the plant is potbound or the cause is low light and high temperature.

- If the leaves droop and turn yellow, the leaf tips and edges dry up, and the stem is wrinkled, the plant does not get enough water to withstand excessive heat in the room.

- Soggy soil will cause the leaves turn yellow or brown.

Make sure you can distinguish between these emergency signs and normal processes:

- The stem can get wrinkled after having spent its water reserves during the long winter. In the spring, you will begin to water as required, and the stem will gradually swell again.

- Large specimens usually have dry, brown leaf tips. If desired, cut off the damaged parts carefully, without touching the green tissues and mist the plant more frequently.

- If the lower leaves dry, there is no reason for alarm, if other leaves look good. This is a natural ageing process. You can remove dead leaves before they fall off.

The most dangerous symptoms are brown spots on leaves and soft shoots and stem. If you press your finger to the surface, dents will remain for a long time. This means that the aboveground part of the plant is rotting because of the root rot. This is caused by soggy soil due to disastrously wrong watering practices. It will not be easy to save the plant.

Overwatering in the winter weakens the plant's immunity to fungal diseases. Beaucarnea is not affected by other diseases.

There is a misconception that Beaucarnea is not prone to pests. In reality, the plant can get spider mites, aphids, herbivorous thrips, mealybugs, and scale insects. Watch for the signs of infestation and immediately begin ruthless fight. You can use commercially available Actellic or Malathion, soap and tobacco solution, or a solution of Dalmatian Daisies (Pyrethrum cinerariifolium = Tanacetum cinerariifolium).

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ATTENTION! Be careful not to cut your fingers with spines and sharp-edged leaves!